Creole Salmon Cakes

The relish that accompanies these slightly spicy cakes reminds me of the pickley olive salad you get in a New Orleans muffuletta sandwich; in fact, as a variation, I like to make salmon cake sandwiches.

• 1 lb. raw salmon fillets (preferably wild), skin and pin bones removed, cut into 1-inch chunks
• 1 large egg
• 1 Tbs. country-style (grainy, but not whole-grain) Dijon mustard
• 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
• 1 tsp. hot sauce, preferably Crystal Hot Sauce
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme
• 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• Giardiniera Relish 

For the sandwich variation:

• 4 5- to 6-inch hoagie or sub rolls or lengths of soft French or Italian bread from a baguettetype loaf (the bread shouldn’t be too dense nor the crust too crunchy)
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise, or to taste

Tip:

To make mini cakes, portion the mixture into 24 small mounds (about 3/4 oz. each), gently shape into cakes, and cook until nicely browned on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total.

Put the salmon in a food processor and pulse until chopped medium coarse, two or three 1-second pulses. Take care not to overprocess. There should still be some chunky pieces; you don’t want a completely smooth purée. In a medium bowl, lightly beat the egg. Add the salmon and combine with a rubber spatula. Add the mustard, lemon zest, hot sauce, 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper; mix until well combined. Cover the bowl with plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

Remove the salmon mixture from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a baking sheet, and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, gently shape each mound into a 2-1/2-inch-wide patty. Sprinkle a pinch of the thyme on both sides of each cake.

Heat the olive oil in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cakes and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the cakes, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides and the interior no longer looks raw, 5 to 6 minutes total cooking time. Be careful not to overcook the cakes. Transfer the cakes to a plate and cover to keep them warm. Serve hot, with the giardiniera relish on the side.