Creamy Spinach

This is lighter than traditional creamed spinach. You can turn it into a spinach gratin by pouring on a little additional cream, topping with a mixture of grated Parmesan and Gruyère, and baking until browned and the pan is bubbling. When squeezing the spinach, save the last tablespoons of green juice to flavor soup.

• 3 bunches spinach (10 to 12 oz. each), trimmed and washed
• 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup minced scallions or spring onions (white and light green parts)
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• Scant 1/2 tsp. salt, or to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salting it well (about 1 Tbs.) Add the spinach to the boiling water and cover the pot to return it to a boil. Uncover and boil the spinach until it wilts completely, about 1 minute. Drain in a colander and hold the colander under cold running water to cool the spinach. Squeeze the spinach with your hands to remove excess water. (Don't worry about losing vitamins; you're mostly squeezing out water.) Chop the spinach coarsely (you should have about 1 cup); set aside.

Spinach blanches in a flash. All it needs is a minute in boiling water.

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the scallions and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chopped spinach, the cream, and the salt. Raise the heat to medium high. Cook, breaking up the spinach with a wooden spoon, until the spinach is tender and has absorbed most but not all of the cream and the pan is still a bit saucy, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, season with black pepper, adjust the seasonings as needed, and serve.