Classic Potato Mash

A pinch of nutmeg adds a subtle savory flavor to traditional mashed potatoes.

• 2 lb. yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into 2- to 2-1/2-inch pieces
• Kosher salt
• 2/3 cup whole milk; more as needed
• 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated nutmeg

Put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan with enough cool water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add 1 tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and cook at a gentle boil, skimming off any foam, until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes.

Drain well in a colander, letting the steam rise off the potatoes for a few minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter in the saucepan until the butter is melted. Season with 1 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. For a rustic texture, return the potatoes to the pan and mash with a potato masher to the consistency you like.

For a smooth texture, pass the potatoes through a ricer or food mill into the saucepan and stir to combine. (For really smooth potatoes, whisk the potatoes briefly.)

Season to taste with more salt and pepper and thin with additional milk, if necessary, before serving.