Spicy Papaya Salad

This savory fruit salad is great with chicken, fish, or roast pork. The optional allspice is a nod to its Jamaican inspiration.

• 1 medium (3- to 4-lb.) ripe papaya
• 1/2 small red onion, very thinly sliced (3/4 cup)
• 1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
• 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tsp. freshly grated ginger
• 1/2 to 1 tsp. minced fresh Thai bird or habanero chile
• 1/8 tsp. ground allspice (optional)
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

Cut the papaya in half lengthwise. Using a spoon, scoop out and discard the seeds. Cut each half lengthwise into 3/4-inch strips. Using a sharp paring knife, peel the strips, removing the skin as well as all the firm, lighter-colored flesh next to it. Cut the fruit crosswise into 3/4-inch chunks and put in a large bowl.

Add the remaining ingredients and toss to combine. Let sit for 10 minutes at room temperature to meld the flavors, and serve.