Green Olive Tapenade Toasts

If salt-packed anchovies and capers aren’t available, use brine-packed capers and oil-packed anchovy fillets, choosing the meatiest ones.

• 2 whole salt-packed anchovies or 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets
• 2 cups (1 lb.) fruity green Frenchstyle olives, pitted
• 1/4 cup salt-packed capers, rinsed and finely chopped 6 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for brushing
• 4 tsp. grappa (optional)
• 1 baguette or other good French bread, cut diagonally into 1/2 inch-thick slices

If using salt-packed anchovies, rinse them well with cold water. With the belly side up, run your finger from the head end down through the tail, removing the viscera and exposing the backbone. Lift out the bones. Soak the fillets in cold water for about 20 minutes and pat dry. Mince the anchovies.

With a chef’s knife or in a food processor, chop the olives to a slightly coarse texture. In a bowl, mix the olives, minced anchovies, capers, garlic, olive oil, and grappa, if using. Taste. Let sit for 1 hour to let the flavors develop.

Prepare a charcoal or wood fire. Brush the bread slices with olive oil and grill on both sides. (You can grill the bread in a broiler or on the stovetop using a ridged pan, if that’s easier.) Spread the tapenade on the toast.